The ancient ingredient that might just revolutionize your skin care routine.
Dealing with any of these skin issues? You might want to try Bakuchiol.
- Hyperpigmentation
- Sun damage
- Wrinkles and fine lines
- Acne
- Dull skin
- Dryness
- Collagen loss
- Rapid “inflammaging”
What is it?
Bakuchiol is a terpene from the plant Psoralea corylifolia (sometimes called babchi), which has long been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for various skin complaints, including vitiligo. This modern extract is being touted as a safer, better-tolerated “natural retinol.” But does it really measure up? After researching, formulating with it, and using a Bakuchiol-based oil for about a year, my answer is: yes it does!
What’s the deal with retinol?
“Retinol” (aka retinoids) are topical synthetic Vitamin A derivatives that work by regulating gene expression and increasing cell turnover in our skin. While they have long been the gold standard for the treatment of wrinkles and other skin issues, they come with the potential for side effects and are sometimes poorly tolerated, resulting in skin peeling, redness and reactivity. Strict sun avoidance is necessary while using retinols, and retinoids don’t play nicely with certain other skin care products; they also aren’t recommended during preconception, pregnancy and nursing. There is some concern that term use of retinol can result in skin thinning, prolonged photosensitivity, and dry skin.
Bakuchiol made headlines in the health and beauty world by going head-to-head with retinol in several small studies, performing just as well as the synthetic for benefits without the associated risks.
How does Bakuchiol work?
Like many natural substances, Bakuchiol’s mechanisms of action are complex and multifaceted. Here is a breakdown of the various ways research suggests that it works to support skin health:
Anti-Aging Effects:
Bakuchiol has shown considerable promise in anti-aging skin care:
- Collagen Production: It upregulates the production of types I, III, and IV collagen, which are essential for maintaining skin structure and elasticity. Given that we lose collagen with stress, inflammation, and age, this is an incredibly exciting aspect of Bakuchiol!
- Matrix Metalloproteinase Inhibition: Bakuchiol decreases the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), which breaks down collagen.
- Gene Regulation: It modulates genes involved in extracellular matrix production and the dermal-epidermal junction, improving skin firmness and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
Antioxidant Properties:
The antioxidative effects of bakuchiol are critical in protecting the skin from oxidative stress and damage, especially common with exposure to sun and air pollution.
- Free Radical Scavenging: Bakuchiol effectively neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS), preventing cellular damage.
- Lipid Peroxidation Prevention: It inhibits lipid peroxidation, a process that can damage cell membranes, lead to cell death, and is a key process in aging skin.
- Enzyme Activation: The compound increases the activity of antioxidant enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD) and inducible glutathione peroxidase, enhancing the skin’s natural defense mechanisms.
Anti-inflammatory Properties:
Inflammation is at the root of many of our skin woes, including rosacea, acne, eczema and even formation of wrinkles (aka, “inflammaging”). Bakuchiol cools inflammatory fires at the cellular level. The compound reduces the production of various pro-inflammatory mediators, suppresses production of inflammatory cytokines like TNF-alpha and IL-6, and downregulates the powerfully inflammatory NFkB pathway.
Antimicrobial Properties:
Bakuchiol has demonstrated significant antimicrobial activity against a variety of microorganisms, making it useful for treating skin infections and acne. In vitro studies suggest that it disrupts the cell membranes of pathogenic bacteria, inhibits bacterial replication, and reduces production of biofilm. While the health of our natural skin flora is essential, bakuchiol does not appear to disrupt healthy barrier function.
Photostability and Skin Tolerability:
Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol is photostable, allowing it to be used during the day without degradation from UV exposure. Its higher tolerability makes it a good fit for daily use across all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Clinical Evidence:
Several studies have validated the efficacy of bakuchiol in real people:
- Anti-Aging: A 12-week clinical trial demonstrated significant improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, skin elasticity, and photodamage with regular application of bakuchiol-containing products.
- Skin Moisturization: Enhanced moisture retention and skin barrier function were observed with continuous use of bakuchiol formulations.
Caveats:
This sounds too good to be true. Is it? My research into formulation and the various bakuchiol extracts on the market has led me to a few cautions around the bakuchiol craze:
Is it clean?
Some bakuchiol is solvent (methanol, chloroform)-extracted. Apparently, large amounts of solvent are required in this type of preparation, leaving me to wonder about the presence of solvents in the finished products, and about how these solvents get disposed of after Bakuchiol is produced. I prefer CO2 extracts which are cleaner, more concentrated and preserve more of the natural phytochemical makeup of the compound.
Are you getting the right strength?
The bakuchiol preparations used in positive clinical studies range from 0.5%-1% concentrations. Many bakuchiol “extracts” on the market are only 10% bakuchiol dissolved in a carrier oil, meaning that some products labeled as 1% actually have a far, far lower (and less effective) concentration of the important active.
Is it sustainable?
Anytime the natural products industry suddenly develops a taste for a specialized ingredient (which comes from a plant!), I get a bit worried. Concerns about Bakuchiol’s sustainability appear to stem from a 2014 article titled “Psoralea Corylifolia L, an Endangered Medicinal Plant with Broad Spectrum Properties” in Indian Journals. However, no other source lists the plant as endangered (or even “to watch” or “at risk”). When I searched the database on the International Union for Conservation (IUCN) website, the plant was listed as a species of “Least Concern” vis a vis its endangered status (basically, as low as it gets). When I read the 2014 article, it seemed that a case was being made for in vitro propagation of the plant/constituent, given the many benefits indicated by the research and potentially high demand. It was unclear where the endangered claim was coming from. In any case, it’s crucial to continue to monitor sourcing and status of Bakuchiol’s parent plant to ensure the long term viability of its use.
Small Studies.
The well-conducted studies on Bakuchiol, while positive, have a small sample size. And some of what we know about bakuchiol is based on in vitro research.
All this said, I love Bakuchiol.
I see real results from using it in my own skin care routine–and it smells and feels great. I love that it’s appropriate for so many skin types, skin conditions, and age groups, and it smells and feels great on my skin. As a person in menopause, I am glad there is an alternative to synthetic retinoids, since I spend tons of time out of doors, and prefer natural skincare. As I get older, I want to support my body’s collagen production–certainly in my joints, bones, and blood vessels–but also in my skin.
Try Our Phyto-Renew Facial Oil formulated with 1% Pure Bakuchiol extracts.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7167735/#ptr6006-bib-0120